Q&A

PLUS-SIZE SEWING
By Barbara Deckert

If I want to increase the waist on a classic pant pattern, do I increase the side and back seams, or just the side seams?
Ingrid,
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Because of the way most pants are drafted, it's best to adjust at the side seams only. For most pant patterns, the center-front seam is drafted close to the straight grain so the pants drape attractively from the waistband (A). The center-back seam is cut close to the straight grain for the same reason (B). On some patterns, however, the center-back seam is cut at an angle that corresponds to the body's slope from the waist to the crotch (C). Since this cut is on the garment bias, the seam can stretch slightly to closely fit body curves. For either type of pants, any pattern adjustments for width at the center-front or center-back seams would alter grainlines and may cause more problems than they'd solve. Adjusting for size at the side seams is easy and works well.

To determine the needed increase, subtract the waist measurement of your pattern size from your actual waist measurement. Divide that number by four. Add this increase to the front and back upper side seam, blending to the full hip. For example, if you were using a size 18 pattern drafted for a 32" waist but your waist measures 34", you would add 1/2" at each side seam (D).

Also adjust the waistband. Cut the waistband at the side-seam marks, place tissue paper underneath, and then spread one-half the total increase at each side seam. Tape in place. For example, if you needed a 2" increase, you'd spread the waistband 1" at each side-seam mark.

From the November 2006 issue of Sew News magazine.