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Q&A
By Amy Stalp
Is it necessary to use the fabric that's suggested on the pattern envelope? For example, if I want to make a simple top out of woven fabric but the pattern envelope suggests stretch fabric, will I have good results?
Betty H.,
e-mail
If you don't follow the pattern envelope's suggestions, you probably won't have good results. Pattern envelopes list the fabrics that are most suitable to the garment's style. The garment has been designed and tested for specific fabrics, so if you deter from the recommendations too much, the finished garment won't fit as well as intended.
It's especially important to follow the pattern envelope's advice when the pattern is designed for stretch knits. You shouldn't use woven fabric for a "knits only" pattern–and vice versa. If it's a popular style, chances are similar patterns are available for woven fabrics–unless the style relies on a knit for its shape and appearance. Once you understand the difference between woven and stretch fabrics, you'll see why straying from a pattern's suggested fabric isn't a good idea.
Woven fabrics are made of lengthwise and crosswise fibers that are woven together and don't have much stretch. The outer lengthwise edges are the selvages. The diagonal–or bias–has the most stretch.
Knit fabrics are made of rows of interlocking yarn loops. All knit fabrics stretch on the crossgrain, some more than others. And some knit fabrics, such as Spandex, stretch both lengthwise and widthwise. Patterns designed for knit fabrics have a stretch gauge on the envelope. Fold over the crosswise edge of the fabric about 3" from the cut end. Hold 4" of the folded fabric edge against the chart and gently stretch to the outer line. If the fabric stretches easily without excessive rolling to the outer line or slightly farther, the fabric has the correct amount of stretch for the pattern.
Patterns designed for knit fabrics usually allow for less ease because the fabric stretches and gives. Patterns designed for woven fabrics allow for more ease because the fabric doesn't have much give. So if you use a knit fabric with a pattern designed for wovens, the garment may be too loose or too big. If you use a woven fabric with a pattern designed for knits, the garment may be too tight and may not drape correctly.
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