Q&A

PLUS-SIZE SEWING
By Barbara Deckert

I love the free-flowing look of a bias skirt, but I don't like the way it clings to my ample curves. Can I fix this problem by turning the grainline a few degrees?
Denise M.,
e-mail

Fortunately, there are simple solutions to help control the cling factor.

Most importantly, don't mess with the grainlines. Keep the pattern grainlines parallel to the fabric selvage. Turning the pieces slightly off grain will cause the fabric to drape unevenly.

Gravity causes bias-cut garments to stretch lengthwise, so always cut extra-wide side seam allowances–at least 1", or up to 2" wide for loosely woven or gossamer fabrics.

To fit a bias-cut garment, staystitch edges that you don't want to stretch during construction–the neckline, armseye, waistline and shoulder seam.

Then, very loosely hand baste the side seams, starting at the seam upper end and leaving a long, unsecured thread tail at the hem. Allow the garment to hang for several days (the longer the better), occasionally stroking the side seams downward, allowing them to stretch naturally.

Try on the garment, letting it out or taking it in at the side seams as needed to allow the bias to flow, rather than cling.

Permanently straight stitch the side seams while firmly stretching the fabric. Or serge the seam with a 3- or 4-thread overlock, to allow for stretch without puckering or popped stitches.

Another alternative is to select styles that are cut on the straight grain in areas where you wish to avoid cling, but are cut on the bias where the fabric flow is prettiest. For example–a skirt with a yoke cut on the straight grain and the lower skirt cut on the bias.

Also, consider adding a straight-grain, dart-fitted lining made of a firm, crisp fabric, using another pattern with a similar silhouette.

An even easier solution is to wear a full or half slip. Slips are like instant linings, allowing the garment to slip over the body while increasing opacity and reducing cling.

Finally, remember that if bias-cut garments are stored on hangers, they'll continue to stretch lengthwise, while decreasing in width at the same time. To avoid this, store your bias-cut garments folded flat.

Barbara Deckert is a custom dressmaker in Elkridge, MD. She is the author of Sewing for Plus Sizes: Design, Fit and Construction for Ample Apparel and Sewing 911: Practical and Creative Rescues for Sewing Emergencies, both from Taunton.

From the November 2005 issue of Sew News magazine.