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Q&A
By Marla Stefanelli
I really like the fabric used in ready-made clothes that's very stretchy and clingy and great for packing. I made a one-seam pair of pants but am having difficulty hemming them. The fabric keeps getting pulled down into the bobbin case. Any suggestions?
Donna R.,
e-mail
The fabric you describe is known as slinky knit. It's made from 95% acetate and 5% spandex. The spandex keeps the fabric from bagging and helps it to recover better after being stretched. Slinky knit doesn't wrinkle and has a slimming effect when worn. The fabric works better for looser and pull-on styles–avoid fitted garments.
To sew slinky knit, use polyester thread and a medium-length, narrow zigzag stitch. The zigzag gives with the fabric stretch. For stress areas, such as the neck, shoulders and waistlines, use a shorter zigzag and stitch over clear elastic as you sew to help stabilize the seams.
When beginning a seam, first stitch on a piece of stabilizer or scrap fabric and then onto the slinky knit. If the upper layer creeps forward, stop and raise the presser foot and smooth the fabric before continuing. (Utilize a dual-feed system if you have one.)
To keep the fabric from being pulled down into the bobbin area, try placing a piece of tape over the hole in the needle plate. The needle will pierce the tape, but the hole won't be large enough for the fabric to go through.
Hem slinky knit by folding the fabric to the wrong side on the hemline and pin in place. Use texturized thread, such as Woolly Nylon, in the bobbin and loosen both the needle and bobbin tensions. Topstitch with a double needle–the underside of the double-needle stitch forms a zigzag and has some give.
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