Q&A
PLUS-SIZE SEWING
By Barbara Deckert
I'd like to know how to change the size of a sleeve. If you enlarge the armhole, how do you adjust the sleeve pattern to fit the armhole?
Merle D.,
e-mail
Enlarging the sleeve is a very common pattern adjustment for plus sizes. There are several ways to adjust the sleeve to fit depending on where you enlarge the armseye.
If you increase the shirt width at the upper side seam to enlarge the bust area, the armseye circumference increases as a result. You'll need to increase the sleeve in the same area and by the same amount. For example, if you add 1" at each upper side seam then add 1" to the upper sleeve seam tapering to nothing at the elbow (A). The effect is the same as if you added a diamond-shaped gusset under the arm. This adjustment also increases width at the upper arm, which many plus-size figures need.
A
Addition to underarm and bodice side seams increases bust, upper arm and armseye.
If you increase the armseye circumference at the shoulder seam to accommodate a shoulder pad or square shoulders then increase the corresponding sleeve area. Draw a higher sleeve cap, tapering to nothing at the notches. For example, if you increase the shoulder seam at the shoulder point by 1/4" and taper the seam to the neck edge to accommodate a 1/2"-thick shoulder pad, increase the sleeve cap height 1/2" beyond the cutting line tapering to nothing at the notches (B). It's best to err on the side of extra height in the sleeve cap. Any excess can be removed by taking a slightly larger seam allowance only on the sleeve cap. This method doesn't add any extra room to the upper arm or bust area.
B
Addition for shoulder pad increases armseye at shoulder; adjust sleeve to match.
To increase width at the upper arm level without adjusting the armseye circumference or the bodice width at the bust level, use the following method. Slash the pattern vertically from below the elbow level up to, but not through, the sleeve cap center. Slash the pattern horizontally from just inside the cutting line at the upper sleeve seam across to, but not through, the other upper sleeve seam. Place a piece of pattern-tracing paper underneath the sleeve pattern. Carefully pull the upper sleeve seam corners horizontally to spread the pattern the desired amount and tape in place.
When you spread the pattern the sleeve cap flattens. If you have full, round upper arms, this could cause the sleeve cap to pull horizontally or collapse. To prevent this, increase the sleeve cap height by about one quarter the increase made across the upper arm. For example, if you spread the pattern by 1", increase the upper sleeve cap by 1/4" tapering to the notches (C). For most fabrics, it's possible to ease in this extra length when you set the sleeve. For stiff or tightly woven fabrics you may need to use gathers or a small dart at the sleeve cap to fit it into the armseye. This adjustment results in a more fitted armseye without changing the bodice.
C
Adjustment increases sleeve width only; no change to the bodice.
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