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Q&A

By Marla Stefanelli

Would you please show me how to fold the fabric to sew a blindstitch hem on the machine?
Vera T.,
e-mail


Hemming on the machine can really speed up the finishing process and though it works on a variety of fabrics, it's not recommended if you don't want the stitching to show. Always test on a fabric swatch to be sure the tension and stitch length will yield the desired results.

Mark the hem and turn under the hem allowance on the marked line; press the fold. Finish the raw hem edge with serging or a zigzag.

With the garment wrong side up, fold the pressed hem under toward the right side, leaving 1/8" to 1/4" of the hem raw edge extending from the new fold; pin in place with the pin heads pointing away from the garment.The straight stitches of the blind-hem stitch will fall on the narrow extension (6).



Set the machine for a blind-hem stitch. A blind-hem foot isn't required, but it can aid in guiding the fabric accurately. Adjust the zigzag width so the left-hand swing of the needle only catches a few threads of the garment fabric.

Lengthen the stitch the desired amount. For shirts and skirts use a longer stitch, so the catchstitches are about 3/8" to 1/2" apart. Loosen the upper tension slightly so the stitching doesn't pull in, curling up the hem at the stitching line.



From the June 2004 issue of Sew News magazine.