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The technique that you're referring to
is called reversed smocking, and it's
done by hand on the fabric wrong side.
Using the illustration at right as a guide,
mark a series of dots in a 1" grid on
the fabric wrong side, using a pencil or
a non–bleeding marking pen (5).
Thread a sewing needle with polyester
thread and knot one end. Pick up a
small amount of fabric (like a little pick
stitch) at the upper left–hand A dot.
Pick up dot B at the upper left diagonal,
and then move back down to the
beginning dot A. Pull A and B tightly
together and anchor with a small stitch.
Move down to C, keeping the thread
slack between A/B and C. Repeat the
previous sequence, taking a small stitch
at C, then diagonally up to D and back
down to C. Draw them together and
anchor the stitch at C.
Continue to work vertically, now connecting
E to F and back and so on.
After you finish a complete vertical
row, begin again at the upper edge
with a new A and B set.
When the smocking is complete, pin
the smocked section to a piece of
muslin and baste around the edges to
hold in place.
Look in books that illustrate traditional
smocking patterns to vary the look of
the design, but use the same concept
explained here.This technique can be
used on any fabric, but it's especially
luxurious on velvet or satin.
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