What is the best way to hem men's dress pants? Mima B.,
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The best way to hem men's pants is to closely examine the original hem and try to duplicate it. Note the hem width, whether there is a turnunder allowance, and how the hem was stitched. Many times, the hem is sewn with a special blind-stitch machine. You can duplicate the stitch by sewing the hem by hand with slipstitches and spacing the tiny catch stitch the same distance apart as on the original hem.
The hem should break softly on the top of the foot and be slightly longer in back (1). Have the man try on the pants and slip into the shoes he'll wear with the pants.
Turn up the hem edge to the desired length in the front and back, and pin in place. Repeat for the other leg. (Most people have slightly different leg lengths, so you'll want to mark both legs.) Use tailor's chalk to mark the new hem length on each leg at the front and back creases.
Unpin the hem, and lay the pants on a flat surface with the legs smooth and folded at the front and back creases. Draw a chalk line from the front mark to the back mark--it should angle down slightly toward the back.
Measure the hem width (same as the original hem) from the chalk line and cut off any extra length. Pink the raw edge, or finish it with serging or a zigzag stitch.
Re-hem the pants using a single strand of matching thread, taking tiny vertical stitches when catching the outer pant fabric. Don't pull the thread too tight. If the pant lower edge is narrower than the pant leg, release a portion of the inseam so the hem allowance lies flat (2).
What is the best way to hem men's dress pants?
The hem should break softly on the top of the foot and be slightly longer in back (1). Have the man try on the pants and slip into the shoes he'll wear with the pants.
Measure the hem width (same as the original hem) from the chalk line and cut off any extra length. Pink the raw edge, or finish it with serging or a zigzag stitch.