Q&A

PLUS-SIZE SEWING
By Barbara Deckert

Adding a control panel to the front of pants helps smooth the stomach silhouette.

A tummy panel, or stay, doesn't flatten the stomach area like a control undergarment would, but it adds a smooth look to a pant front, snugs the pant back to your body and helps pleats drape gracefully.

The best fabric for a tummy stay is Lycra power net, the same fabric used for girdles. Heavier four-way stretch Lycra blends, such as moleskin or jumbo spandex, also work. Lightweight spandex blends, such as swimwear fabric, aren't firm enough.

To make a stay for side- or back-zippered, dart-fitted, or front-pleated pants, begin by pinning out the front darts or pleats on the pattern. Fold the fabric right sides together with the greatest stretch running horizontally. Pin the center-front pattern seamline on the fabric fold with the lower raw edge 1" above the crotch curve (1). Pin the pattern piece along the side seam and upper edge; cut out the panel.

Serge- or zigzag-finish the stay lower edge. After stitching the pant front darts or pleats, sew the center-front seam to within a couple inches of where the crotch seam joins with the pant leg inseams.

Baste the stay along the pant side seams and upper edge, and then finish the pant construction according to the pattern instructions.

To prevent the stay from rolling up when you're seated, stitch a long French tack through the stay lower edge center and the crotch seam allowance (2).

To add a tummy stay to ready-to-wear pants with a side or back zipper, cut the stay as described above. Using the pants as a pattern, add seam allowances to the stay sides and upper edge.

Serge or zigzag each edge. Straight stitch or zigzag the stay side edges to the pant side seam allowances.

Pin the stay upper edge to the waistband seam. Stitch in the ditch from the right side to secure, or catchstitch the stay upper edge to the inside lower waistband edge. Finish with a swing tack at the lower center-front and crotch seam allowance.

Barbara Deckert writes more about dart adjustments in Sewing for Plus Sizes: Design, Fit and Construction for Ample Apparel. She's also authored Sewing 911: Practical and Creative Rescues for Sewing Emergencies, both from The Taunton Press. Barbara is a custom dressmaker in Elkridge, MD.

From the March 2007 issue of Sew News magazine.