Q&A

PLUS-SIZE SEWING
By Barbara Deckert

Why are basted fittings important to pattern alterations?
Sheila W.,
Atlanta, GA

Last month we discussed some of the reasons why fitting is so complicated. Plus-sized sewers need to adjust patterns to accommodate for differences from standardized measurements and for figure variations. A fabric's drape also affects a garment's fit, and personal fit preferences vary widely. This is why sewing professionals do basted fittings to ensure each garment fits correctly.

To baste fit, cut out the adjusted pattern and transfer any marks to the fabric. Staystitch any curved or bias edges that might stretch during construction (such as necklines).

With right sides together, baste the main garment pieces together along the seamlines. Use a long machine stitch for sturdy fabrics; narrow and long zigzag for knits; or hand baste with a long running stitch for fragile fabrics.

Try on the garment right side out, wearing appropriate undergarments and shoes. Pin any closures closed. Stand with your normal posture in front of a full-length mirror. Use a hand mirror to see the back, or have someone assist you.

Look at your image in the mirror. Imagine that what you see is a line drawing, as on the back of the pattern envelope. Are there any lines or wrinkles that don't belong?

Horizontal lines often indicate tightness in an area. For example, unintended horizontal lines across the hip area point to the side seams. To correct, remove the basting in the tight area and repin with a narrower seam allowance, placing the pins parallel to the cut edge, until the lines disappear.

Vertical lines usually mean there's too much width. If you see vertical sag lines, take in and repin the vertical seams and/or darts in the area until the lines disappear.

Diagonal lines generally indicate something amiss with both the length and width. For example, a diagonal line from the bust apex to the armseye could mean the dart isn't adjusted correctly for a large cup size.

Starting at the shoulder seams and moving downward, adjust the seams and darts by placing pins parallel to the stitching lines. With highly curved seams, you might see some unwanted lines that'll disappear when the garment is stitched permanently and the seam allowances are clipped. Don't remove any intended design lines. Also be careful not to fit too tightly, since you need to breathe, sit, bend, and move around in your clothing.

Carefully remove the garment. With an air- or water-soluble marking pen, using the pins as your guide, mark any changes made on the garment wrong side.

Using the marks as a guide, permanently stitch the garment. Follow the pattern instructions and any changes made during the fitting. Remove the basting.

Barbara Deckert writes more about fitting in Sewing for Plus Sizes: Design, Fit and Construction for Ample Apparel and in Sewing 911: Practical and Creative Rescues for Sewing Emergencies, both from The Taunton Press. Barbara is a custom dressmaker in Elkridge, MD.

From the March 2006 issue of Sew News magazine.