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Alençon lace is embellished with beads, cords and sequins, and is easiest to sew with appliquéd seams. Cut out the garment allowing for extra-wide seam allowances of about 1"; thread-baste the seamlines and dart lines.
Cut around the motifs down the dart center and then overlap one side over the other, matching the sewing lines (4). Depending on the motif, you may need to overlap part of the edge and underlap another section so the motifs are on the exposed surface.
If beads or sequins are in the way of the stitching, remove them from the edge without cutting the threads that secure them to the fabric; secure the threads so more beads or sequins don't fall off. Hand or machine stitch the upper layer to the layer underneath; trim the lower layer close to the stitching.
Use the same technique for the seams. Overlap the front over the back, or vice versa depending on the motifs--matching the basted seamlines. Hand or machine stitch the layers together and trim the layer underneath close to the stitching.
From the March 2004 issue of Sew News magazine.
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