Q&A

PLUS-SIZE SEWING
By Barbara Deckert

Reducing Dart Bulk

In the Jan. '07 issue you learned how pattern adjustments for very large cup sizes result in excess dart bulk. Following are ways to eliminate the excess fabric for a neater finish.

To use just one set of darts, trim the excess dart fabric 5/8" from the stitching to within 1/2" from the dart tip. Finish the raw edges to prevent raveling. Press the trimmed seam allowances open, and then press the dart tip downward for side-seam bust darts or toward the garment's center for vertical darts. Another option is to divide or rotate large darts.

To divide a dart, draw lines from the base of each dart leg to the bust apex. Draw another line from the bust apex to wherever you'd like the additional dart to be located (1). Place a piece of tape over the apex point. Cut one of the original dart's lines and the line for the new dart, stopping just prior to the apex point. Close half of the original dart, and the additional dart will automatically open up (2). Place tissue underneath the opening; tape in place. Draw new dart legs from a point 1/2" to 1" from the apex to the base of the new dart. True both darts by folding the tissue as if it was sewn and pressed, and then trim along the cutting line at the base of each dart.

To rotate a dart, extend the dart legs from the base of the dart to the bust apex. Draw another line from the apex to wherever you'd like to relocate the dart. Place tape over the apex. Cut one of the original dart's lines and the new line up to, but not through, the apex. Tape the old dart closed, causing the new dart to open up (3). Place tissue under the open area; tape in place. Finish by redrawing the dart legs to a point 1/2" to 1" from the apex, and true the dart as described above. As you learned last month, you can conceal darts in creative design features, such as princess seams, yokes, gathers, tucks and pleats. For example, for a shirt with a front vertical band, divide a large dart to the center front, and then tightly gather the new dart instead of sewing it conventionally. On a shawl-collared jacket, divide a large underarm dart to a new shoulder/neckline dart that's hidden under the collar; this helps the collar roll nicely. On a cardigan-style jacket, rotate a large bust dart completely to the lower mid-center front, and fold the dart into a deep pleat for an eye-catching design detail.

Avoid Bumpy Dart Points!

Stitch darts from the wide end to the tip. Stop sewing one stitch from the tip; leave 4" thread tails. Knot the tails together against the fabric. Trim the thread and press the dart in the direction stated in the pattern.

Barbara Deckert writes more about dart adjustments in Sewing for Plus Sizes: Design, Fit and Construction for Ample Apparel. She's also authored Sewing 911: Practical and Creative Rescues for Sewing Emergencies, both from The Taunton Press. Barbara is a custom dressmaker in Elkridge, MD.

From the February 2007 issue of Sew News magazine.