Use the following cleansers when caring for vintage clothing or fabric.
SALT is used as a color fixative and prevents most dyes from bleeding. Dilute approximately one cup of salt per tub of water. Soak all heavily dyed garments in a salt bath for at least 20 minutes to fix the dye prior to cleaning.
VINEGAR is used as a clearing bath after garments have been washed in soapy water. It neutralizes the soap residue left in a garment after washing. A general dilution ratio is one cup of vinegar per tub of water.
HOUSEHOLD AMMONIA neutralizes body salts on garments, especially perspiration stains. Use approximately one-half cup of ammonia per two gallons of water. Soak the garment for 20 minutes, and then proceed with either a salt bath for colored garments or a soap bath followed by a vinegar bath. These tips are especially helpful for fine sweaters and silk garments. Use only a tablespoon of ammonia if treating white silk–too much ammonia can cause yellowing.
LIQUID SOAP is preferred over powdered soap as it dissolves more easily in warm water. Check the manufacturer's label to determine the amount to use.
STARCH was very popular throughout the 17th century. Use starch for a crisp finish to linens, nurse's caps, nun's traditional head coverings and gentlemen's shirt collars and cuffs. Apply starch as desired after mending and cleaning the garment.
Resources
Robert Doyle has been involved in theatre and costume design in Canada for the past four decades. An encyclopedia of textile and garment care is included in his books Laundry, The Whys and How's of Cleaning Clothes and Waisted Efforts: An Illustrated Guide to Corset Making, both available from Satorial Press at sartorialpress.com.
