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Q&A
By Marla Stefanelli
How do you square up fabric?
Bruce W.,
e-mail
Many times the fabric grain is distorted when yardage is wound onto bolts. When you square fabric, you're realigning both threads so they're perpendicular to each other. If you cut a garment from yardage that isn't square, it may drape incorrectly and twist around the body.
Start by recutting one raw edge of woven yardage by pulling a thread close to the cut end and trimming along the line it creates (1). If you're working with knit fabric, cut along a row of loops (2).
Fold the fabric in half aligning the selvages and the straightened end; pin the edges together. If wrinkles form diagonally across the fabric, the fabric is off grain.
For minor distortion, steam out the wrinkles. Hold the iron above the fabric and give it a blast of steam, then pat the fabric flat. Or iron the fabric, moving the iron from the selvage toward the fold (3).
When fabric is very off grain, grab the selvage and fold edges and pull the fabric in a line that is perpendicular to the wrinkles (4). Move your hands 2" to 3" along each edge and pull again. Continue until you've pulled the entire yardage.
Lay the fabric flat and recheck for wrinkles. If necessary, stretch the fabric more or steam out the remaining distortion.
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