Star Quality
Appliqué
Set up the machine with matching thread and a zipper foot. Move the needle to the far right. Increase the stitch length to eight or 10 stitches per inch. Position an appliqué under the foot so the needle penetrates 1/8" from the edge. Stitch completely around the appliqué, pivoting at the corners. Remove pins as you reach them; backstitch at the beginning and end. Clip the thread ends close to the fabric.
After edgestitching all the appliqués, set up the machine for free-motion stitching: Drop or cover the feed dogs, change to a darning or embroidery foot, and reduce the presser-foot pressure. Consult your machine manual for more specifics.
Chalk-mark the swirl inside each star, and free-motion stitch over each, securing the thread with tiny stitches at the beginning and end. Clip thread ends close to the fabric.
Use a chalk fabric marker to sketch swirly lines between the shapes as shown on the jacket. To plan the design lines that cross from one garment section to another, first abut the center fronts, then the side seams, and so on.
Thread a blunt tapestry needle with matching yarn (use lengths of 12" or less to avoid damaging the yarn during needling). Omitting lines that cross side seams, embroider over each line with overlapping backstitches (3). On the wrong side, secure the yarn ends with an overhand knot and dab each knot with seam sealant. Apply the seam sealant sparingly so it doesn't seep through to the fabric right side.
Construction
Set the stitch length for eight to 10 stitches per inch and change to a walking foot. If you don't have a walking foot, use an all-purpose foot. Pin each side seam generously and stitch, sewing slowly. If the fabric layers begin to creep, lift the presser foot and the needle. Nudge the top layer backward, then reset the needle. Press the seam allowances open from the wrong side, using plenty of steam and a seam stick to avoid imprinting.
Finish the remaining hand embroidery. Sew the shoulder seams and press open, then set in the sleeves. Try on the jacket. Check that the front openings are even (steam back into shape if necessary) and that the hems are at the desired length.
Adding Trim
Color-matched trim usually comes packaged with enough matching yarn to hand stitch one or both trim edges. You can machine stitch the trim to the garment wrong side, fold it to the front, and finish it with hand stitching. Mitering creates unnecessary bulk and isn't recommended.
Add trim to the neckline and hem separately. Finish the center front openings last, overlapping the cut ends at the neckline and hem.
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