Sewing Stunt Double

Remove the Form

Use a permanent marker to draw a line along the upper edge of one shoulder. Working on the side back, draw another line from the middle of the shoulder line to the form's lower edge. Place hash marks across this line to help realign the edge when taping the form back together (11).

Use bandage scissors (blunt-pointed scissors) to cut the line at the shoulder and the side back. Spread the form apart and remove from the body. Trim the excess from the lower edge along the marked line.

Reinforce the waistline by placing short tape strips across the waist on the inside of the form (12).

Bring the cut edges together, aligning the hash marks, and then tape the form back together. Also tape the joined edges from the inside to add extra strength to the seam.

Reinforce the Form

Place tape strips on the form outside from the middle of the skirt to the hem, wrapping at least 2" to the inside. Add additional strips on the inside of the form in the same area (13).

Apply additional tape at the neckline and armhole edges by placing the tape on the outside, perpendicular to and extending past the edge. Split the tape to the edge to wrap it smoothly to the inside (14).

Fill in the armhole and lower openings with cardboard to stabilize the form and help keep its shape. Stand the dress form on a piece of heavy cardboard, and then trace around the lower edge. Mark "front" and "back" on the tracing as it corresponds to the dress form. (The shape won't be a perfect oval; it'll be your shape.) Place each armhole on the cardboard and trace the shapes. Mark the "top" and "bottom" (15). Cut out the cardboard pieces.

Working with the larger oval, cut a hole in the center large enough to allow a 1 1/2" pipe to go through. Place the cardboard just inside the form lower edge. Use a flat knife or ruler to pull the form lower edge out to allow the cardboard to sit just inside the edge. Use tape to secure the cardboard in place (16).

Insert the armhole pieces and secure with tape. The cardboard pieces keep the shoulder from collapsing and distorting. Mark the armhole center on the cardboard (17).

Build up the neck extension with tape. Continue adding tape until there are at least five layers. Wrap tape from the outside to the inside to smooth the upper edge (18).

From the August 2006 issue of Sew News magazine.