Sewing Stunt Double

Define the Body Shape

Cut several 4"-long strips of self-adhesive paper packing tape and apply it over the shoulders and around the neckline to stabilize the neck area (2).

Cut five 20" to 22" strips of duct tape, and then cut or tear each strip lengthwise into thirds.

Wrap a duct-tape strip around the body underneath the breasts. Have the model hold up her breasts equally so they're the same level from the floor to allow the trash bag to cup underneath; place the tape.

Place a long duct-tape strip from each shoulder between the breasts to the waist to create a cross-the-heart effect.

Define the waistline by tightly wrapping the duct tape around the waist (3). (Begin at the back waistline to help identify the waist more easily.)

Wrap the Body

Use 12"- to 15"-long strips of paper tape to wrap the body. The goal is to apply the tape smoothly with a minimum of wrinkles. If necessary, use shorter tape strips. When complete, each area should have five tape layers applied in alternating directions. Wrap the diaphragm last to allow the model to breathe easier during the taping process.

Wrap the skirt area. As you wrap this area try for a smooth transition in the areas of the pubic bone, space between the legs and under the buttocks. The lower portion should look more like a fitted skirt rather than the exact body shape. Place the first tape layer horizontally around the body from the waistline down until the area is totally covered (4).

Place tape strips vertically from the waistline to the hem (5).

Add a third layer of tape by wrapping horizontally around the skirt.With each layer the shape will become smoother and more uniform (6).

Wrap the fourth tape layer vertically. Add a fifth layer of tape horizontally around the skirt portion.

Tape the bodice back. Tape the back with five layers, alternating from horizontal to vertical layers until all five layers are completed (7).

Tape the front underarm area. Use 6"-long strips and tape the underarm area from the back to the front in a bias direction. Place at least three tape layers in the underarm (8).

Tape the bustline and upper chest. Cut 3"- to 5"- long strips in half lengthwise, and then tape the bust area alternating the direction of each layer; place at least four layers. Tape the upper chest to the neck and armhole with regular-width tape (9). Extend the tape into the underarm region as you work to continue building up that area.

Tape the stomach. Use 6"- to 8"-long strips and wrap horizontally and then vertically overlapping into the underarm area (10).

Use a yardstick and permanent marker to mark the form's lower edge as you'd mark a skirt hem. Measure from the floor and mark a line evenly at the lower edge about 6" above the knee.

Use a plumb line and permanent marker to mark the center front, back and side seams on the form. The center front should fall between your breasts, the center back should align with the crease in your buttocks, and the side seam should align with your ankle.

From the August 2006 issue of Sew News magazine.