Do-It-Yourself: Machine Maintenance
Tension
The machine tension adjustments put stress on the thread so it doesn't simply flow through the machine. When the upper and lower tensions are balanced, the stitch forms correctly. Tension is easy to adjust--stitch on fabric samples with a different thread color for the upper and lower threads. Observe the stitch, adjusting the tension until the stitch is formed correctly. As a general rule, adjust the upper tension first. If the stitch still isn't right, adjust the bobbin tension.
The upper and lower threads should interlock halfway in the fabric thickness (1).
If the bobbin thread is visible on the upper layer, loosen the upper tension or tighten the bobbin tension (2).
If the upper thread is visible on the back of your work, tighten the upper tension or loosen the bobbin tension (3). Tightening upper tension means increasing the number--normally set at about four. Loosening means going to a lower number.
To change the bobbin tension, turn the small screw on the bobbin case in small increments--no more than a quarter turn at a time. Turning the screw to the right tightens the tension, and turning to the left loosens the tension. Many people have two bobbin cases--one for regular sewing that is hardly ever adjusted, and one for sewing with decorative thread, which is adjusted as needed.
Serger tensions behave the same way--turning to the right or a higher number increases the tension, turning to the left or lower number loosens the tension.
Keep a sample notebook of your sewing machine decorative stitches and your serger stitches--noting the threads and tensions used for each sample. You'll save time by referring to the notebook for the proper settings.
If you're still having trouble after cleaning, oiling, checking the needle and adjusting the tension, or if the machine sounds "funny," or is having electrical problems, it's time to call your service professional. They may offer some additional suggestions, but it's likely you'll need to take in the machine. Having a service professional that you trust is essential--ask friends for recommendations. You should feel comfortable with this person, and they should be able to give you a price estimate before beginning the work. They should also be able to explain the repairs made and charges for each.
Your machine is your tool. The quality of your projects and your sewing experience is affected by how well your machine performs. If you're fighting it, you probably won't enjoy your sewing--and it's supposed to be fun. Take care of your machine and it will perform for many years.
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Diagnosing Stitching Problems
Needle Knowledge
From the July 2004 issue of Sew News magazine.
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