Veils

Measure & Cut

To make a double-layer veil, lay out the netting on a flat cutting surface and cut it to the length of both layers added together. Fold the netting in half, and then fold it in half again so all four corners meet. Use pattern weights to hold the edges in place.

Using tailors chalk and a plate or other round object, shape the layered corners into a gentle curve (1). Cut the netting along the mark. For a smooth cut, use a rotary cutter or pass the netting through an unthreaded serger with the knife engaged. Cutting with scissors is not recommended as it results in jagged edges.

Fold the net horizontally at the point that divides the shorter veil portion from the longer one. Use a press cloth and warm iron to lightly press the fold. Open the netting at the fold, select a basting stitch and sew two rows along the fold for the gathering stitches (2). Illusion has no grain but does have more give in width than length so sewing curves without staystitching can cause ripples.

Stabilize the veil edge by staystitching 1/2" from the edge using a 4 mm to 5 mm stitch length. Begin at the center point at either the short or long veil end. Stitch from the center point to the gathering stitches on each side (3). Repeat the process for the opposite veil portion. The directional stitching keeps the netting from stretching. Slowly guide the netting; don't force or pull it through the machine. Remove the staystitching after finishing the edges.

When cut smoothly, a veil doesn't need edging. A plain-edge veil is the perfect complement to a heavily embellished gown. Enhance a plain gown with a specialty edged veil.

Attach the Headpiece

Gather the netting by pulling the bobbin thread on the two gathering stitch lines. Knot the threads on each end to secure the gathers at the desired width, and then stitch across the gathering twice to secure.

Position the veil layers right sides out with the shorter layer on top of the longer one. Attach the gathered portion to a comb or headpiece using a tapestry needle with two strands of thread. A catchstitch, which resembles a row of Xs on the right side, is the best stitch to use for stability and strength.

For a detachable veil, glue or stitch one side of hook-and-loop tape to the gathered netting edge and glue or stitch the other side to the headpiece.

About the Author

Linda Stewart has sewn professionally for 25 years. She's the Vice President of Certificate Programs for the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers (PACC) and specializes in bridal and formalwear design. In 2004 she launched Linda Stewart Couture Designs and teaches professional alteration classes nationwide. She also authored and published the CD book, Alterations for Professionals.

From the June/July 2007 issue of Sew News magazine.