Veils

Pencil Edge

A pencil edge is formed by using the narrow rolled hem on a serger or by making three passes around the veil edge using a 2 mm-wide zigzag with a 2 mm-long stitch. Experiment with different stitch variations, and practice sewing curves before tackling the veil. Try different threads to determine what type of edging you like best. Wooly nylon used in the serger loopers thoroughly covers the cut edge; rayon thread in the upper looper and wooly nylon in the lower gives the edge a nice sheen. One layer of stitching may be sufficient, but two layers may look even better. If using a serger, disengage the knife on the second layer to avoid cutting into the first.

When using a zigzag stitch, select matching cotton or polyester thread for the first two stitching lines, which should be about 1/4" apart. After sewing the two closely spaced lines, tighten the thread tension slightly and sew with the needle in the netting on the zig and off the netting on the zag so the netting rolls under slightly. Stitch slowly and guide the netting through the feed dogs without pulling or forcing it. With each successive layer of zigzag stitches, the stray netting edges will disappear. If desired, change to rayon thread in both the bobbin and the needle on the last layer for a shinier finish.

Pearl or Piped Edge

Pearl trim and cording (rattail) come in a variety of sizes and colors. For this application it's essential to use a pearl or piping machine foot. Use a zigzag stitch, a sharp 80/12 needle, and lightweight rayon or clear nylon thread. The shape of the specialty foot allows the pearl or cord to feed through the front of the foot and stay in perfect position as it's stitched.

The shorter side of a double-layered veil is folded over the longer layer, so attach the pearls to the right side of the longer layer from the gathering fold on one side to the gathering fold on the other. Then cut the pearl trim/cord and thread, lift the needle, and flip the veil over to attach the pearl trim/cord to the shorter veil piece.

Begin and end stitching at the horizontal gathering point to camouflage the joining. Trim close to the stitching if necessary.

Ribbon Edge

Ribbon is a popular edging choice. Choose a double-sided ribbon for viewing from both the front and back. The wider the ribbon, the harder it is to ease around curves.

If necessary, add temporary basting stitches to the inside ribbon curve and gently ease the ribbon to the shape of the veil; press the curve lightly with a warm iron to help maintain the shape. If the ribbon is wide and can't be eased without puckering, cut the veil with a more gradual curve or select a narrower ribbon.

Use a sharp 70/10 or 60/8 needle and lightweight matching thread. Test first and decide if a straight stitch or narrow zigzag works best with the ribbon. A good alternative to ribbon is a lightweight bias-cut fabric, which conforms to curves.

Embroidered Edges

Use water-soluble stabilizer to edge and embellish illusion, netting and organza with machine embroidery. Due to the fabric's fragile nature, choose designs that are light and airy with low stitch counts.

The veil is viewed from both sides, so use matching needle and bobbin thread. Embroidered veils are usually one layer to fully showcase the details.

Sparkle & Shine

Add extra sparkle by attaching sequins, pearls or crystals to the veil with glue, stitching or a hot-fix tool. When using any type of heat application follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully so you don't melt the tulle.

Silk flowers, lace and appliqués are also good decorative choices, but take care to view the veil from all angles to assure that stitching or glue isn't visible.

Simple or elegant, ivory or white, pearls or crystals, the choice is yours. Make your veil your own...exactly how you want it.

From the June/July 2007 issue of Sew News magazine.