Jacket: McCall's 4602 or similar pattern for unlined, collared jacket
Vest: Butterick 5276 or similar pattern for lined, button-front vest
Top: Butterick 3196, View B or similar pattern for long-sleeve blouse with back closure (modified; hook-and-eye closure instead of back zipper; added bust dart)
Fabrics in yardages indicated on pattern envelopes
Matching thread
Stabilizer (tear-away or iron-on) or fusible interfacing, in amount large enough to cover couched areas
3 to 7 yards of assorted decorative yarns, cords, ribbons and bead strands in coordinating colors
Monofilament thread
Metallic needle
Bobbinfil (optional)
Presser foot or feet selected for project
Chalk marker or air-soluble fabric marker
Large-eye needle
Cut out the pattern as directed, adding 1/4" to seam allowances to allow for any fabric pulling.
For a predetermined design, use chalk or an air-soluble fabric marker to trace or sketch placement lines on the fabric right side.
Cut a piece of interfacing slightly larger than the area to be couched and fuse to the fabric wrong side. Or, cut a piece of tear-away stabilizer slightly larger than the area to be couched and pin to the fabric wrong side.
Thread the machine with the selected couching thread, and load the bobbin with Bobbinfil if desired. Select the appropriate stitch type and width to couch the first strand. Test the stitch settings on a fabric scrap, ensuring the thread encloses the strand width completely and securely. If you've marked placement lines, pin the first trim length in place.
Stitch over the strand to secure (3). (Use your hand to guide trim placement if you're free-form couching.) Add another strand, and sew along the trim length from beginning to end, following the curves (4). Don't backstitch; instead, leave long thread tails at each seam end. Remove excess stabilizer, if necessary.
Using a large-eye needle, pull thread tails to the fabric wrong side; knot securely.
Lay the fabric flat on a pressing surface, wrong side up, and thoroughly press the entire design area. If the couching is particularly dense, spread a towel on the pressing surface first, and then lay the fabric on the towel, right side down; press. The towel protects the couched yarns so they maintain their dimension.
MATERIALS
Thread the machine with the selected couching thread, and load the bobbin with Bobbinfil if desired. Select the appropriate stitch type and width to couch the first strand. Test the stitch settings on a fabric scrap, ensuring the thread encloses the strand width completely and securely. If you've marked placement lines, pin the first trim length in place.