The Basics: Marking

Pattern Symbology

COMMONLY FOUND SYMBOLS, what they mean and how to mark them.

Buttons and buttonholes. The pattern will indicate placement for buttons and buttonholes but final locations are best determined after the pattern is altered and fitted to you. Use tailor's tacks, chalk, nonpermanent ink pens or stickers.

Darts look like triangles with one jagged edge where they cross a seamline. The dart's legs can be notched or snipped in the seam allowance but the exact location of the dart point should be marked with a pin, tailor's tack or non-permanent ink pen.

Dots, squares and triangles are used for matching purposes and should be transferred. They indicate positioning for pockets and closures. They're usually on a seamline. Tailor's tacks, stickers, chalk or non-permanent markers are the best tools for marking.

Center back/front lines often indicate a fold or are matched to neckline or hemline markings. Depending on the project, you may want to baste a line that indicates center front and center back.

Grainline. The grainline marking isn't transferred to the fabric.

Notches. Single, double and triple notches are used for matching. Always match the same size of notch. These are most often marked with snips or notches in the seam allowance.

Stitching lines indicate where pieces are stitched together. Beginners may prefer to mark these with a tracing wheel and paper. As you gain more experience you can use the machine's guide to help you sew consistent seams without marking seamlines.

Transfer markings for the following pattern details to ensure project success:

• Center front and center back
  
• Notches
  
• Dots and squares to be matched
  
• Darts
  
• Pleats
  
• Beginning and ending of gathered
  
or eased areas

• Hemlines
  
• Placement lines for pockets,
  
tabs, buttons, buttonholes, etc.

• Position lines for embroidery or
  
decorative stitching

• Stitching lines when available
  

From the April 2004 issue of Sew News magazine.