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Madeira Appliqué

Appliquéing the Vest Fronts

For the appliqués, use the leftover linen cut from the center of the linen borders. You might want to select organdy or a tulle fabric for the flower overlay.

From your software program, print a paper template of the selected embroidery design. Mirror-image the same design, and print a second template. Then send both versions of the design to the embroidery machine.

Lay out the vest-front panels, and arrange the paper templates under the organdy center. Draw the horizontal and vertical alignment marks onto the organdy using the water-soluble marker.

Hooping organdy will crush the fibers, and basting the fabric to the stabilizer will leave needle holes. Instead, spray the hooped stabilizer with temporary adhesive and finger-press the vest front to the stabilizer.

Embroider the appliqué, closely watching the fabric to ensure it doesn't shift during stitching. Repeat to embroider the mirror-imaged design to the second vest front.

When the embroidery is complete, trim the stabilizer from the fabric wrong side, and follow the manufacturer's instructions to remove the excess stabilizer.

Finish the vest using the appliquéd vest fronts and following the pattern guidesheet instructions.

Embroidery Tips for Sheer Fabrics

Organdy fabric is wonderful to use in heirloom projects, but because it's very lightweight and sheer, it requires some special handling.

Choose a 70/10 Microtex needle. Microtex needles have very slim, acute round points, which produce precise stitches without leaving unnecessarily large holes in sheer fabric.

Select a stabilizer that can be completely removed with heat or water. A clear, melt-away stabilizer produces good results. If you prefer watersoluble, pick a heavyweight stabilizer so you won't have to hoop multiple layers.

Choosing designs: Appliqué designs perform best because the stitches aren't too dense. You can add color and creativity with the appliquéd fabrics instead of heavy stitching.

Don't have an embroidery machine?

Never fear! Get the same great look using your favorite traditional appliqué technique to embellish the vest fronts. Simply slide an appliqué template under the bordered vest front, and transfer the lines onto the organdy using a water-soluble marker. Before cutting the appliqué fabric, apply paper-backed fusible web to the appliqué fabric wrong side. Fuse the fabric following the manufacturer's directions, and use a satin stitch or blanket stitch to stitch around the appliqué's raw edges.

...Sources

From the March 2005 issue of Sew News magazine.



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