Re-create the scalloped effect of galloon edge fabric using preprogrammed machine stitches on eyelet yardage.
MATERIALS Fabric
Eyelet batiste (yardage according to pattern envelope)
1/2 yard of organza
Other
Short sleeve shirt pattern (such as Simplicity 4122)
Size 70/10 sharp needle
Thread: lightweight or machine-embroidery thread matched to base fabric and eyelet stitching
Size 8 perle cotton in a neutral or color to match eyelet stitching
Follow the pattern instructions to stitch the side seams and front placket. Apply a seam finish to the side seams. See Self-Bound Seams.
Select a scallop stitch from the preprogrammed stitches on the machine (4). Thread the machine with perle cotton thread, which adds dimension to the scallop and helps stabilize the decorative stitch. Use an open-toe embroidery foot or a specialty foot with a pigtail guide or small hole at the front of the foot (such as a braiding or cording foot) to easily guide the perle cotton (5).
Clean the bobbin area before test stitching on the same fabric layers used in the garment. Adjust the tension as necessary to obtain a balanced stitch.
Press the garment and sleeve hemlines to create stitching guidelines. To stitch each hem, open the hem and lay the fabric flat on a 3"-wide stabilizer strip. Align the stitch center with the marked hemline; stitch.
Experiment with preprogrammed stitches on your machine to find the scallop look you like.
To draft asymmetrical scallops, see "Hem Couture"
in the May '06 Sew News.
Using appliqué scissors, carefully trim away the fabric and stabilizer below the scallops (6). Turn the fabric to the wrong side and trim the stabilizer above the scallops (7). If the scissors slip and cut the stitches, add a drop of seam sealant to the scalloped edge.
To scallop the collar edge, layer the collar and facing with wrong sides together; place interfacing between the layers. Baste the seamline, leaving the notched edges open. Stitch the scalloped edge along the basted seamline. Carefully trim the collar and interfacing seam allowances (8).
Finish the blouse as directed in the pattern guidesheet; finish the sleeve underarm seam.
Using appliqué scissors, carefully trim away the fabric and stabilizer below the scallops (6). Turn the fabric to the wrong side and trim the stabilizer above the scallops (7). If the scissors slip and cut the stitches, add a drop of seam sealant to the scalloped edge.