Figure 1

Serge clear elastic to opening. Turn and topstitch.

• Spandex-blend fabrics add stability to neckline and armhole edges, providing the resiliency to spring back to their original shape after stitching without the added bulk of facings.

• Trim the seam allowance to 1/2". Serge-finish the edge with a wide, balanced stitch. Turn the stitch width to the wrong side and topstitch with a single- or twin-needle stitch.

• Trim the neck allowance to 1/2". Serge 3/8"-wide clear elastic to the opening wrong side at a 1:1 ratio, overlapping the ends. Turn the elastic to the wrong side and topstitch it in place (Figure 1).

Figure 2

Bind edge with narrow serged binding.

• Bind woven or knit garment edges with 1"-wide nylon spandex fabric strips. Available in lustrous colors, nylon spandex adds brilliance to any garment while stabilizing the opening. Cut the strip with the greater stretch lengthwise and serge-finish one long edge with a narrow balanced stitch. Right sides together, serge the strip to the opening with a wide stitch, stretching the strip slightly around curves. The stitch width will be the binding finished width. Wrap the binding to the wrong side over the seam. Stitch in the ditch or twin-needle topstitch to secure (Figure 2)

Figure 3

Serge band to opening and topstitch seam allowances to garment.

Figure 4

Fold 3/8" to wrong side. Lettuce-serge fold and trim close to stitching.

• Add a matching or contrasting spandex band to a neckline. Cut a 1"-wide band with the greater stretch lengthwise. Fold it in half lengthwise and serge to the opening right side, matching the cut edges and slightly stretching around curves. Fold the seam allowance toward the garment and topstitch to secure (Figure 3)

  
  

• Maximize the fabric stretch by lettucing the edge. Adjust the serger to a short rolled edge setting and the differential feed to a minus setting. Serge the edge, stretching as you serge. If the edges show through the stitching, shorten the stitch or fold 3/8" to the wrong side and lettuce-serge the fold, being careful not to cut it. From the wrong side, carefully trim the seam allowance close to the stitching (Figure 4).

Figure 5

For heavier weight fabric hems, serge, turn and topstitch.

• For lightweight fabrics, hem the edges with a narrow balanced stitch, narrow rolled-edge stitch or lettucing.

• For heavier weight fabrics, serge-finish, turn and topstitch the edge (Figure 5). Topstitch with a serger coverstitch or use a conventional machine with a long single- or twin-needle stitch, stretching slightly as you sew. Or topstitch with a slight zigzag to prevent the stitches from breaking during wearing. To prevent rippling, ease-plus by holding the fabric behind the presser foot while topstitching or serge over 3/8"-wide clear elastic placed on the wrong side without stretching. Steam carefully after topstitching without touching the iron to the fabric.