Stretch your embroidery skills for easy-to-stitch summer fun.
Knit fabrics are available in a wide variety of styles and textures--from sporty to elegant, jersey to velour. They stretch in a multitude of directions and this stretch factor creates challenges for hooping and embroidery. The right combination of fabric, design, stabilizer, needle and thread ensures successful results.
Design choice
Light and airy designs are the best for knit fabrics. Solid, dense designs may curl, cup or distort knits, even with the perfect stabilizer choice.
It's best to choose designs based on the knit weight. For lightweight knits, choose simple, less dense or outline designs. A dense design embroidered on a lightweight knit weighs down the fabric surrounding the design. For sweatshirting and other heavyweight knits, choose a design with more detailing, but not overly dense.
Test-stitching
Test-stitch designs onto the same fabric as the project to be sure the design has proper underlay stitches for support. Underlay is the first stitching layer that acts as a foundation for other stitches and holds all the layers (topping, fabric, stabilizer) together while embroidering. The best underlay structure for knits is one that follows the design perimeter, combined with loosely laid interior stitches to secure the layers (Figure 1).
Some editing software packages have a sew simulator--the ability to "stitch" designs on your computer screen one stitch at a time. This is one way to determine if the embroidery design has underlay stitches before actually test-stitching.
Stabilizing
Technically, knit is considered an "unstable fabric" when it comes to high-speed embroidery. A cut-away stabilizer is the key to design stability while the design is embroidering and it remains behind the embroidery motif throughout the life of the garment.
Choose a fusible or non-fusible cut-away stabilizer in a weight to complement the fabric weight. A too-heavy stabilizer makes stiff designs; a stabilizer that's too light will increase the chances of the design cupping and puckering.
For heavyweight knit, use several layers of a lightweight cut-away stabilizer and grade the stabilizer layers after embroidering. This will prevent added bulk behind the design and next to the body.
A tear-away stabilizer used with knits may pull away from the design during embroidery, causing design distortion and mismatched outlines.
To stabilize the fabric stretch prior to hooping, fuse knit tricot interfacing to the fabric wrong side under the embroidery area. Knit tricot interfacing has the same cross-grain stretch as the fashion knit, so fuse the interfacing stretch perpendicular to the knit fabric stretch. Note: A cut-away stabilizer is still necessary even though interfacing is used to support the fabric.
To prevent misaligned outlines, forward through the design and stitch the outline first to secure all the layers together, using a thread color that matches the fabric. Then embroider the design from the beginning, re-stitching the outline in sequence.
Hooping
Hooping knit fabrics can be accomplished two ways--hoop the stabilizer and the fabric together; or hoop the cut-away stabilizer, spray the stabilizer with temporary adhesive and stick the fabric to the stabilizer. The latter method is the most popular, as it prevents stretching the fabric.
Toppers
Knit fabrics have ribs into which the embroidery stitches sink. Use a topper to keep the stitches above the surface. Choose from a variety of toppings, suchas water-soluble stabilizer, colored vinyl or matching organza.
After hooping, place the topper over the design area and use the machine's fix/baste function to hold it in place during embroidery.
To remove the topper after embroidering, carefully cut or remove following the manufacturer's instructions. To remove an organza topper, hold it taut above the design and trim close to the design edge using sharp, curved scissors. The organza cut edge will disapper back into the fabric, but will remain under the design for stability.
Thread
If the embroidered project will be laundered frequently, choose a synthetic thread. Polyester and acrylic threads are favorites for kids' clothing. Cotton embroidery thread is soft and gentle next to the skin when combined with cotton bobbin thread. Metallic threads usually are not suited for knit fabrics as the knit's uneven texture may break the delicate threads.
Needles
Ballpoint, universal or embroidery needles all work well on knits. The needle point should not cut the fibers, but rather slide between them. A ballpoint needle has the most rounded tip and an embroidery needle has a very slightly curved tip--a universal needle is in between. For best results, test-stitch designs with a size 75/11 embroidery needle for lightweight knits or a size 90/14 for heavier knits. If needle holes are visible in the fabric, select a smaller size needle or change to a different needle type.
Stitching
Never leave the embroidery machine unattended when embroidering knits. The hoop must move freely without the fabric dragging. It's important to support the fabric weight while embroidering to prevent pulling or stretching, and design misalignment.
Finishing
Short compact stitches may cause the embroidery backside to be scratchy. To soften the feel, use pinking shears to cut a piece of knit tricot interfacing and fuse it to the embroidery wrong side. The pinked edge helps prevent show through.
Credits
Siltex Mills provided the 51% cotton/49% polyester, #20-1030 interlock knit in color Lemon.
Jeanine Twigg is the author of Embroidery Machine Essentials published by Krause Publications. She is also a contributing editor for Creative Machine Embroidery. Jeanine can be reached through her Web site www.embroideryresource.com
Test-stitching