After dismantling the bra, carefully press all the pieces flat using a warm iron; don't iron back and forth or you'll distort the pieces. Be careful not to scorch or melt the fabric.
Tape a piece of pattern paper to the foam-core board. Making sure the bra pieces are right side up, tape the pieces to the pattern paper (9). For a full-band style, draw a straight line on the paper and line up the exact center of the front bra band on this line. Tape or pin into the center front to keep it from shifting.
Using the tracing wheel or a large needle, poke holes at the edges of all the pieces, spacing the holes about 1/4" apart (11a). Mark any notches the manufacturer may have used for guidelines (they may be subtle), or put in your own if you need "landmarks" to help match pieces together. If the strap ended at the upper edge of the back bra band, mark the strap placement.
Carefully remove the pieces and, using a French curve, connect all the dots (holes), smoothing out any irregularities (11). If the seam allowance was more or less than 1/4", add or subtract what you need to make it an even 1/4".
Label everything! Note the direction of greatest stretch (if any) of the original and mark it on the pattern, as well as how many pieces to cut and what the part is (Upper Cup, Bra Band, etc.). It also helps to note the upper edges, armholes and center fronts/backs on the various parts.
For the best chance of success, try to duplicate the original materials as closely as possible, both in weight and degree of stretch. Read the care/content label for a clue about the fabrication. Remember to double the elastic lengths when you figure yardage needed, and note the width of the elastics, the straps and the hook and eye closure (measured top to bottom). Lay out the pieces on a gridded cutting mat to make it easy to figure the fabric yardage needed. Plan on getting two to five bras from a yard of 60"-wide fabric, depending on the size and style.
Lace cups often have a sheer lining for stability and comfort, so note on the pattern that you need to cut two pieces of the lace fabric and two of the sheer (mark "Cut 2 fabric and 2 lining."). Check the lining for stretch. If it "gives, " it's probably sheer (15 denier) nylon tricot. If it has no give at all, then it's likely a sheer stabilized nylon such as Sew-In Sheer, which is available as an interfacing.
Copy the pattern onto oaktag or poster board--you'll always have a master that you can trace off on pattern paper, in case the "working" pattern starts to get worn or torn. You can also make fit adjustments and style changes on the working pattern and transfer them to the master pattern.
Use the pattern to cut out a new bra and assemble following the directions you wrote while taking apart the bra.
Tape a piece of pattern paper to the foam-core board. Making sure the bra pieces are right side up, tape the pieces to the pattern paper (9). For a full-band style, draw a straight line on the paper and line up the exact center of the front bra band on this line. Tape or pin into the center front to keep it from shifting.
Using the tracing wheel or a large needle, poke holes at the edges of all the pieces, spacing the holes about 1/4" apart (11a). Mark any notches the manufacturer may have used for guidelines (they may be subtle), or put in your own if you need "landmarks" to help match pieces together. If the strap ended at the upper edge of the back bra band, mark the strap placement.
Carefully remove the pieces and, using a French curve, connect all the dots (holes), smoothing out any irregularities (11). If the seam allowance was more or less than 1/4", add or subtract what you need to make it an even 1/4".