Bra Bra-vado!

By Cindy Elam

Dismantling the Bra

There are variations in order of assembly among different bra manufacturers and styles. To illustrate how to copy a bra, we'll demonstrate the process on an underwire bra with a back-hook closure. While the steps you take to dismantle your bra may be in a different order, you'll get an idea of how it works.

Remove the underwire. Carefully use the seam ripper to cut the stitches to open the end of the underwire channeling and remove the underwire. At the bottom of the note-paper write, "Insert underwires and stitch channeling closed, using narrow satin stitches." Also note which wire end goes into the channeling first (1).

Remove the back hook closure. (2). Write, "Attach back hook using narrow zigzag stitches." Also note how the closure is attached: the hooks go on the bra band right half (as worn) with the hooks facing toward the body, and the eyes go on the left side facing away from the body. Note: If your bra is a front-hook style, the hook assembly will be removed after the channeling is removed.

Remove the strap. Detach the strap from the top of the cup (3). On the sample bra, since the strap elastic was used to finish the curve to the center back, this was removed next (4). Write, "Zigzag strap to top of upper cup. Pin strap elastic at center back, curving up to top of bra band. Zigzag (medium width) close to inner edge."

Remove the upper edge elastic. (5). Note the elastic width, the length used and the method of attachment. Note: If the bra is worn out, the elastic may have become stretched out; compensate for this by cutting a shorter piece when cutting the new elastic. For the sample bra, we wrote, "Cut 12" piece of 38"-wide plush elastic. Pin elastic to upper edge of bra right side with plush (fuzzy) side facing up and picot edge pointing inward. Stitch with narrow zigzag along picot edge. Turn elastic to inside and use a three-step zigzag along the elastic straight edge. " If the elastic piece is shorter than the bra upper edge, make a note to quarter-mark both the elastic and bra edge and match the marks before pinning and stitching.

Remove the underwire channeling. (6). For the instructions write, "Stitch channeling to cup from upper edge at center front around to armhole edge, using short straight stitch." Note the seam allowance width and the channeling width and length.

Detach the bra band from the cup. Carefully note how the bra band is attached to the cup, including the seam allowances and seam finishes, if any.

Remove the bra band lower edge elastic. As before when removing the upper elastic, note the elastic length, width and method of attachment.

Remove the center front piece from the cup and take apart the cup. (7) and (8). Note the seam allowances and finishes used here. If a lace trim was used on the cup with the fabric trimmed away behind it, leave the lace attached; add lace to your creation when sewing the new bra, and then trim away the fabric behind.

If you're working on a full-band bra (where the band continues under the cups), after removing the channeling or band/cup seam finish, detach the cup, and then the elastic at the lower edge of the band. You only need to undo the elastic to just past the center front. Note how long it is (remember this will be doubled for the full-band). Between the cups, the center band or center front piece can be traced while still attached to the other half of the bra.