Bra Bra-vado!

By Cindy Elam

Learn a technique to reproduce that favorite bra style.

Many women have a favorite bra--the only one they ever found that fit them correctly. But when the manufacturer discontinues that bra style, they're out of luck. If this sounds familiar, make a pattern from that favorite bra by "reverse engineering." While there are methods for making a pattern from an intact bra, dismantling the bra provides a more accurate reproduction. If you're concerned about taking apart a new expensive bra, don't worry...you'll have the instructions for putting it back together when you're finished.

Materials

• Bra to be copied (seamed cup will reproduce best)
• Seam ripper. Note: A straight-blade seam ripper works best.
• Pattern tracing paper
• Paper scissors
• French curve and see-through ruler
• Pen and pencil
• Needle-point tracing wheel or large needle
• Note paper
• Transparent tape
• Foam-core or cardboard, approximately 12" x18" piece

Bra-copying Tips

• Only disassemble one half of the bra; keep the other side intact to examine if you get stuck.
• Keep notepaper handy to take notes of the disassembly process, making lots of notes and illustrative sketches. This will become the instruction sheet for sewing the bra. Start at the bottom of the note paper and work up, since you'll be starting with the last step in the assembly process and working backward. This puts the instructions in the correct order when you're ready to start sewing a new bra. Remember to write the reverse of what you're doing when taking apart the bra (i.e., when detaching the straps, write instructions for how to attach the straps).
• Examine the bra carefully to determine the steps in which it was assembled. You can tell which seam was sewn first by paying attention to where one seam crosses another.
• For each step, note the stitch type (straight, zigzag) and approximate length used.
• As you cut the threads holding the bra together, leave the thread ends in the fabric; this makes it easier to see the seam allowances used.