Add dimension and warmth to fall projects with this simple technique.
When Nanette Holmberg developed her famous Faux Chenille technique for woven fabrics, she may not have thought of applying this fun technique to fleece. Faux Chenille takes advantage of controlled raveling to create dimensional surface interest.
To create the chenille effect on woven fabrics, multiple layers are stacked on a base fabric, sewn with parallel rows of narrowly spaced bias stitching, and the channels between the stitching lines are slashed open, leaving the base fabric intact. The cut edges are "roughed up" by brushing, and machine washing and drying. What results is a controlled ravel (because the cuts are made on the bias) and a fluffy chenille effect. Adapting this technique to fleece involves taking advantage of the fabric's loft and nap to simplify the process.
Fleece Chenille Basics
Because fleece is lofty, you can use just two layers of fabric to achieve the fluffy goal. The stitching lines sink into the fleece, creating tension in the upper layer. When the channels are slashed open, it releases the tension and the cuts "bloom" to reveal the contrast underlayer. There's no need to brush or launder to ravel the fabric--just rake it with your fingers.
Choose high-quality, mediumweight fleece--lightweight fleece will not produce a fluffy bloom and two layers of heavyweight fleece are too bulky.
For best results, choose medium to bold contrasting colors. Because of the fleece loft and nap, subtlety is lost-- stronger contrast is more noticeable and dramatic.
Even though fleece doesn't ravel, the rows of stitching lines need to be sewn on the bias to achieve a good bloom. Channels sewn on the straight grain or crossgrain tend to remain closed when slashed. If stitching many diagonal rows for channels, draw parallel lines across the project to use as guidelines, or use your machine's quilting guide to keep rows evenly spaced.
Stitch rows 3/8" to 1/2" apart for the best results. Wider channels tend to lie flat rather than bloom.
Because fleece is such a lofty, stretchy fabric, use a 3 mm or 3.5 mm stitch length. A shorter stitch places too much thread in the seam, causing waves and distortion.
If your machine balks at feeding two or three layers of fleece, reduce the presser-foot pressure and/or use an even-feed or walking foot.
Begin by making "chenille yardage," using larger-than-needed fleece pieces and then trimming to size after stitching and slashing. If you cut the garment or project pieces "to size" and then create the chenille, the final chenille piece may be too small. Fabric layers shift while sewing and cutting, so once you've trimmed and trued the edges, the chenille may be smaller than your pattern pieces.
The easiest way to slash the upper fleece layer is to insert a narrow cutting strip between it and the base layer and use a rotary cutter. Sew the channels 1/8" wider than the cutting strip.
Chenille Project Ideas
Fleece Chenille can be used to add surface interest to any garment or home dec item where two or more layers of fleece can be used. Using the same "chenille yardage" approach, you can create pillow tops, or garment yokes, sleeves, backs or collars. Make a scarf to try out the chenille technique.
The Christmas Candy Cane scarf got its name from the colors used. It could easily have a different flavor using purple and pink, black and white, or evergreen and taupe.
The three-layer U.S.A. scarf in red, white and blue is a great way to show patriotism. Change from the sporty bright red, white and royal blue to dark red, winter white and navy, or choose your school colors.
Nancy Cornwell, aka the Polar Princess, has written four books about sewing with fleece and has been a frequent guest on many television sewing shows. She owned a fabric store for 18 years and currently works in sales and marketing for David Textiles Inc.
If you enjoyed this online article, and would like more outerwear fleece techniques, refer to Polar Magic by Nancy Cornwell. This 160-page, full-color, soft-cover book includes trapunto, embossing, pintucking, machine embroidery, reverse appliqué and more.
SOURCE
SewandQuilt.com, (888) 937-8458, www.sewandquilt.com, sells Omnigrid Omnistrip sets in two sizes-original (3/8", 1/2" and 3/8" wide x 24" long) and mini (5/16", 1/4"" and 3/8" wide x 24" long); item #40605, specify original or mini.
