Imagine running into someone whose name you've forgotten---you can just ask your jacket to whisper it in your ear!
Believe it or not
Sound far-fetched? The next-generation technology may involve weaving computer chips into fabric. The military is currently testing a vest incorporating positioning devices that tell soldiers where they are in relation to each other.
Believe it or not, fabric actually caused controversy at the Olympics. Body-hugging neck-to-ankle Fastskin™ suits allegedly made swimmers go faster, creating an unfair advantage.
Performance Fabrics
Sports have inspired innovative textile technology generating what are commonly referred to as "performance fabrics." Active people expect fabrics that perform functions like wicking (pulling moisture away from the body), breathing (aiding evaporation and maintaining winter warmth and summer coolness) and even sun blocking (protecting skin from UVA and UVB rays). Performance fabrics must also be wind- and waterproof, tear-resistant, quick-drying, easy-care and easy-to-sew.
Performance fabrics can be woven, non-woven or knit. Some are actually multiple layers laminated together or urethane- or polyurethane-coated. Many are blends of both natural and synthetic fibers, each adding their special function to the mix.
It's important to know what properties a fiber adds to the finished fabric, because when you shop you'll usually see fiber content rather than a brand name on the bolt.
For example, if the bolt indicates Teflon®-coated nylon, the fabric will be wind- and water- resistant, somewhat slippery to sew and only moderately breathable. A fabric containing Lycra® will have inherent stretch, the amount of which depends on its partnering fiber(s).
Lycra® blends are fairly common, though some people are nervous about sewing them due to misconceptions about stretch fabrics in general and a fear that clothing will be skin-tight. Lycra® is added to many wovens and knits for comfort and wrinkle resistance.
Polarfleece® is probably the best known of the performance fabrics with its high wicking properties. New technology has created anti-pill fleeces, so look for this property when shopping.
Microfiber fabrics are made of high-quality, superfine polyester threads, densely constructed. This density gives the fabric its drape and water resistance for outerwear, although it lacks breathability. The best reason to love microfibers? No static cling.
Nylon is the major blending component of most high-tech fabrics, sometimes adding shine and always adding strength. It seems to bring out the best in cottons and polyesters, while bonding well with coatings.
Ripstop nylon is resistant to tearing as its name suggests, and is also wind-resistant and water-repellent. But these properties make it non-breathable for clothing, resulting in a clammy feeling in damp weather.
Cordura® nylon is as tough as canvas, though a much lighter weight. It's waterproof and non-slip, but also non-breathable.
The one slightly out-of-step performance fabric is Tencel®, a natural fiber made from wood pulp. Alone, Tencel® tends to wrinkle, but because of its cotton-like properties it's often blended with other fibers to add drape, durability and wrinkle resistance.
Strategizing
One of the challenges/opportunities of working with high-tech fabrics is learning to maximize the fiber/fabric benefits and compensate for deficits with construction techniques and modifications. Remember form and function go together. For example, add breathability to a garment with a breathable lining, grommets or hidden vents.
Your fabric may be wind- and waterproof, but your pattern choice may not. Patch pockets on a waterproof raincoat can quickly become water buckets, so consider adding a flap.
Cutting & Sewing
To pin or not to pin? Most performance fabrics can be pinned within the seam allowances without damage, but pins leave permanent holes in coated fabrics, so opt for pattern weights or binder clips where needed.
While all the blends can be a bit confusing, you'll be relieved to learn that performance fabrics are fairly easy to sew. You can use good quality polyester thread for most of these fabrics, except microfibers and Tencel®. Fine embroidery thread works best for microfiber fabric construction, and cotton thread for Tencel.
When sewing nylon-blend fabrics there are two important things to remember--seams fray and needles make holes. To combat the first quality, you can serge seams with an overlock stitch, sear them over a candle flame, or use a hot knife to seal the edges. Coated or laminated fabrics do not fray, so extra precautions aren't necessary.
Most performance fabrics are surprisingly receptive to universal needles appropriate to fabric weight, or, if in doubt, a microtex needle. Microtex needles have a thinner shaft and slimmer point than universal needles so they go through dense fabrics more easily, creating a smaller hole. Microfiber fabrics require a microtex needle due to their density. Use stretch needles on Lycra® blends and stretchy fleeces. If you want water and, to some extent, wind resistance, needle holes should be sealed with a seam sealant.
You will probably have less slippage frustration if you use a Teflon® or roller foot on most performance fabrics. An appliqué or satin stitch foot works well on fleeces. For microfiber fabrics, choose the presser foot with the flattest bottom, holding the fabric taut against the feed dogs.
Fleece and Lycra® knit blends do not require interfacing. On other fabrics, your most important decision is whether to use fusible or sew-in interfacing. If a fabric is already coated, a fusible will make a mess. Coatings and fusibles don't mix; use a sew-in instead.
Fabric Fun: Chalkboard Fabric
The most amazing thing about this textured black fabric, known as Chalkcloth™, is the more you work with it, the more ideas you get. It's a real chalkboard, but it's also a sewable fabric made of polyvinylchloride adhered to polyester/cotton scrim.
Put chalkboard fabric on walls to let artistic children be creative. Make portable travel games, calendar wall hangings, children's quiet books, aprons, growth and chore charts, and shopping and menu lists.
Before using, "season" the fabric by totally covering the coated side with the flat side of chalk, then wipe it off with a damp cloth.
Sew chalkboard fabric with a denim needle and heavy duty thread. Stitch it to other medium- to heavyweight fabrics, sew vinyl pockets onto it, or stretch it over a wooden frame. However, do not embroider on this versatile fabric--repeated needle punches will tear it!
To clean, just wipe with a damp cloth. It's usually sold by the yard or in precut sheets.
Sources
Nancy Zieman, host of public television's Sewing With Nancy®, invites your questions and ideas. Sewing With Nancy® is sponsored in part by Sew News.
The most amazing thing about this textured black fabric, known as Chalkcloth™, is the more you work with it, the more ideas you get. It's a real chalkboard, but it's also a sewable fabric made of polyvinylchloride adhered to polyester/cotton scrim.